Roast Quail with Juniper Berries III

12 ea Quail, necks and feet removed
6 sl Pancetta, thin (Italian dry-cured unsmoked bacon) -- coarsely chopped OR 6 sl Bacon, coarsely chopped
12 ea Sage, leaves, fresh OR 1/2 ts Sage, dried
1/4 c Oil, olive
36 ea Juniper, berries, toasted in dry skillet for 5 minutes
Salt (to taste)
Pepper (to taste)
1/4 c Gin (optional)
1/2 c Wine, white, dry (optional)
2 c Stock, Veal
toothpicks

Preheat your oven to 450 F. Holding quail, breast up, tuck wing tips under. Place a little of the pancetta, a sage leaf, and 2 juniper berries in the cavity of each bird. Sprinkle the cavity and outside of each bird with a little salt and pepper. Push each leg joint downward and fasten it to the carcass with a toothpick, pushing a toothpick through both legs.

Heat the olive oil in a large heavy skillet over very high heat. Arrange birds in pan, breasts down. Saute, shaking pan occasionally until breasts are lightly golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Place the skillet in the oven and roast 5 to 6 minutes. Use tongs to turn birds' breasts up and continue to roast until golden brown, about 6 minutes. Remove the skillet from the oven and transfer the quail to 6 warm serving plates; keep warm while preparing sauce.

Discard any fat from the skillet and place the pan over medium-high heat. Deglaze the skillet, adding the gin and wine, scraping up any browned bits in a pan. Add your stock and boil gently until reduced enough to coat a spoon lightly. Stir in the remaining juniper berries, adjust your seasonings, and pour this over the birds. Serve immediately. Serves 6.

Source: New York's Master Chefs, Bon Appétit Magazine, Written by Richard Sax, Photographs by Nancy McFarland; The Knapp Press, Los Angeles, 1985
Chef: Seppi Renggli, The Four Seasons Restaurant, New York
Owners: Tom Margittai, and Paul Kovi

From: Fred Ball, 13 Aug 98